FEE STAG'S I 

WHIP # j 

WAR BRIDLE ! 








Class 
Book. 



Copyright}! .. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 




FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE 



Freitag 's 
Whip and War Bridle 



THE EDUCATING 
OF THE COLT AND HORSE 



By H. C. FREITAG 

ti 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



,£ 

vV 



Copyright 1911 



Crihfield Press 
Jftinier -JItlanta, Illinois 



/ 

£>CI.A325540 



4a^ 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



e3£= 



TO ALL LOVERS OF THE HORSE. 




HERE is a saying that "valuable 
articles are done up in small pack- 
ages." In this book I have tried to 
boil down the main principles of 
horse control, so you will waste no 
time in getting hold of the real thing. You have here 
the results of long study and experience. I only hope 
you will use it, and if you do I am sure you will have 
a higher opinion of the horse's intelligence, and a greater 
admiration for the noble animal that has been man's 
best companion and helper. 

Very truly yours, 

H. C. FREITAG. 



Seward, Nebraska. 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



=aip 



THE EDUCATION OF 
THE COLT AND HORSE. 




jUJHIS lesson depends entirely on the 
subject. If it has never had a hal- 
ter on, which I have found the case 
quite often, suppose it is in a lot 
and you want to catch it. I have 
always been successful by throwing a slip loop around 
the neck, made out of a heavy sash cord, and then 
working my way up to it. If it is of a wild nature, 
and wants to strike at you when you get it in close 
quarters, and it wont stand for you laying your hand 
on it in any way, by taking the butt end of the whip 
in hand, get close enough to touch it on the side of the 
neck, and speaking to it kindly. By rubbing it on the 
neck awhile you will find you can soon get close 
enough to rub it on the neck with your hand. 

You have the noose around the neck ; by bringing 
the cord around the right side, over the nose, then by 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



slipping through double between the neck and the 
noose, bring the double end back into the mouth over 
the upper teeth. This is my own bridle, called the 
Freitag bridle. You have a device on now with which 
you can subdue almost any wild colt. 

By getting on one side you will be able to pull the 
colt hard enough to make it move out of its tracks, and 
by saying " Come here ! '* If it makes a move to come, 
stop and caress it on the neck. Repeat this a time or 
two and you may get straight in front of it and have it 
coming your way. 

I made it my business to know why caressing on 
the neck would have such an effect on the colt. 

The sympathetic system, as it is called, is a nerve 
running from the throat where it is connected to the 
spinal cord. It has six different connections with the 
spinal cord from the throat to the shoulder. By 
caressing on the shoulder you gain the colt's confi- 
dence. 

It is best to have the colt in a lot or enclosure. By 
repeating with this bridle and the command, " Come 
here ! " in a short time you may take the bridle off 
and the colt will follow you anywhere. 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



FIRST LESSON GIVEN A GREEN COLT 
THAT IS GENTLE AND HALTER- WISE. 

I believe in teaching one thing at a time. Both 
commands can be taught a colt with a good head in 
one day, by teaching one in the morning and the 
other in the evening, but teach one at a time. 

In teaching the command, " get up ! " put on the 
bridle without a check rein, unless it holds its head 
down near its shins, as I have found many of them to 
do. In this case check just high enough so you have 
better control of it. Never allow your subject to run 
backward. Should it try it, put on the Freitag bridle 
and have some good man that understands his business 
pull it forward when given the command to start. 
Start it a few times in this manner. When it starts 
freely, take the lead of the bridle from the assistant and 
in your hand with the lines back of the colt. Now 
drive it and stop by pulling just hard enough on the 
device to bring it to a stand still without saying " whoa! " 
When you have turned him both ways, and he obeys 
your first command, let him rest a few hours before 
teaching the command " whoa ! " 



1 1 FREITA G'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 

E^S&Q^yij r ^^ — J I f ■ 5555^1^=^- nJ QOg 



=312= 



TEACHING THE COMMAND "WHOA!" 

Teaching the command, " whoa ! " should be done 
thoroughly. Always work your subject according to its 
disposition. If the colt is of the stubborn kind, one 
that has a bulge below the line of the eyes, it is best to 
have the governing device on his head. If it is of a 
very nervous kind, it is best to have appliances on the 
fore-feet. Experience has taught me that a study of 
the disposition is necessary to be successful in this 
work, and it is easy enough studied. 

Where so many mistakes are made is by using the 
same appliance for the many different dispositions, and 
getting the colt confused. In your case, if your sub- 
ject is of the stubborn kind, the best device to make 
him respond to the word " whoa ! " is a double pulley 
bridle made out of sash cord with two small pulleys. 
Take sash cord about thirty-six feet long, tie each pul- 
ley (such as are used for windows of the smallest kind) 
in the center of the cord about eight inches apart, lay 
them back of the colt's ears, bring the cord from the 
right side through the mouth and on through the pulley 



FREITA G'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 1 1 



on the left side of the head, and the one from the left 
side through the mouth to the right side. If it is not 
severe enough, put one of the cords under the upper 
lip, and remember you are working on a stubborn sub- 
ject. 

Have your bridle lines and surcingle, one which will 
not interfere in the least with the pulley bridle. Take 
both ends of the sash cord with your lines, having the 
lines through a ring of surcingle on both sides about 
half way down on body, to prevent the colt from turn- 
ing while teaching this command. Start him up, the 
very first time you say " whoa ! " follow with a sudden 
pull on pulley bridle, and bring him to a stand still. 

Repeat until you have him stopping at the com- 
mand " whoa ! " and do not forget to caress him on the 
sympathetic nerve for obeying, for kindness plays a big 
part with the horse. Let him rest for a few hours be- 
fore doing any more. 



12 FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



SECOND LESSON. 

TEACHING THE NERVOUS COLT 
THE WORD "WHOA!" 



It is best to have soft footing for this kind. As the 
throwing appliances will be necessary to bring it to its 
knees a time or two. The place can be made of ma- 
nure or straw better than to have big knees, should the 
appliances have to be used much. Knee pads are 
hard to find that are any account. 

Have the lines on as before. Be on the alert, and 
as you give the command to stop, pull on the throwing 
appliance and bring him to his knees. Do not hold 
him there, but relax on the rope and let him up. Re- 
peat until you have him stopping at the command. 



FREITA G'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 13 



THIRD LESSON. 

AFTER THE COLT UNDERSTANDS 
THE WORD "WHOA!" 



Before the colt understands the word " whoa ! " you 
may drill it to objects of fear by driving it over papers, 
robes, or anything that might cause it to frighten. 

Be careful and not hurt it in any way after it be- 
comes indifferent to these objects. 

Now is a good time to ride it about in the lot. I 
ride most of my subjects in this lesson without bridle 
or halter of any kind, and guide it with open umbrella 
over its head. After having this lesson well taught, 
lei it rest for the next lesson. 



14 FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



FOURTH LESSON. 
HITCHING THE COLT SINGLE. 

Drill it about in the lot with the lines. Put the 
front hobble on, run the rope between the hind legs, 
and drive it until it becomes indifferent as to what you 
are doing. Then you may hitch it to buggy or cart 
and drive carefully until it is convinced nothing is go- 
ing to hurt it. Leave the appliance on, but take the 
rope out from between its hind legs. 

I have driven gentle colts by just driving a little 
while with lines, and then hitching without going to 
this extra work, but most of the time to my sorrow, as 
I have found nine out of every ten will take an out- 
break after they have been driven in the nicest way for 
a month or a year. By giving them these extra les- 
sons, no matter how gentle they may seem, the out- 
breaks will be few and you will have your colt under 
control if they should try it, by saying " whoa ! " 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



FIFTH LESSON. 
BREAKING UP THE HABIT OF KICKING. 

The throwing appliance is necessary, but it is not 
necessary to throw them every time they attempt to 
kick. I do not believe entirely in the front hobble 
with a kicker ; it gives no control of the head. I have 
broken up this habit without ever using front hobble 
by means of a halter and a rope. If the horse can be 
controlled by the head or you can get his attention by 
use of some device, then the habit can be cured by loop- 
ing a rope around the hind leg, one rope above and 
one below the hock joint. Be sure and have a piece 
of blanket or sack around the leg and loop the rope 
over this to keep from taking any hide oG. It will not 
hurt the horse in the least. Have rope long enough 
to run through the ring of the halter or take halter 
rope and run back through the loop on the hind leg. 
Now pull hard enough to throw the horse on his side 
by taking the head around to side by means of device 
on hind leg. The neck will become so limber that 
the least pull on one line will bring the head to the 
side and you can render the horse powerless to kick. 
This must be done on both sides alike. After they 



16 FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



have been taken down a few times in this manner, 
have a nose band made that can be buckled from one 
ring in the bit to the other ring. That fits it over the 
nose snugly. Have two loops made about three inches 
apart in center of nose band so that a sash cord can be 
run through, tied to small bit in mouth or check line 
bit ; now across and tie in check rein bit. The two 
cords must be long enough to each one will reach back 
to driver in the buggy. Now have two loops on top 
of bridle between the ears, large enough for sash cord. 
Take one end of the sash cord and run through territ 
ring ; through loop in bridle ; through loop in nose 
band ; cross and tie in check rein bit. Do the other 
one likewise. Now pull horse's head where you wish 
to rein them and tie both cords back of territ rings ; 
take cord back in the buggy. Now you have his neck 
limber by the first treatment. If the kicker shows signs 
of an outbreak, pull on sash and one line. It will bring 
head in the air and to one side and the kicker is power- 
less. Use this device until you are satisfied in your 
own mind that you have broken up the habit. The 
same efFect can be gotten with good bridle check rein 
and lines after the neck has been made limber by rein- 
ing up and pulling on one line. 



FREITA G'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 1 7 



SIXTH LESSON. 
BREAKING THE HABIT OF BALKING. 

There has been much written about the balker, such 
as subjective treatment with throwing appliance and 
the war bridles. I have been successful with a certain 
number of horses with this treatment and am proud 
to say I have worked every balker that I ever tried. I 
have found it necessary to do a right good job without 
hurting the horse, to give it other treatment than sub- 
duing with throwing appliances and war bridles. I be- 
lieve it is useless to whip a horse for balking or to 
break up any other habit. If a horse can be cured 
from balking without injuring him in any way, no mat- 
ter how, I believe, is good, whether it 's my way or some- 
body else's way of giving treatment. When the throw- 
ing appliance failed, I was always able to break up the 
habit by putting on a good halter that fit up good by 
tying a padded rope around the neck and tying the 
rope fast up to a pole or a limb of a tree far enough 
that the horse cannot strike hind end or legs against 
it. I have set posts high enough and fastened a good 



18 FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



=g[fe 



stout cross piece that will hold a horse's weight. Tie 
in middle of cross piece, pull the head up high enough 
to tire them by standing in this position. Have every 
thing good and stout. In a short time they will begin 
to light this. They will fight the air sometimes. This 
will last from two to five hours. There is no danger, 
if you will raise the head just high enough so they will 
fight. After untying them, start and stop them with the 
lines before hitching up. If the treatment has not 
been sufficient, repeat until you have the habit broken. 
This will have good effect on kickers also. After you 
untie from the pole, then it is all right to put on a 
war bridle of some kind. Have a man take hold of 
the end of it and pull at the same time. The driver 
gives the command to start and taps with the whip. 
But remember, be careful with the whip ; use the whip 
just to get the attention of the horse. If you can't by 
just tapping, use some other means of getting its at- 
tention in place of whip. 



FREITA G'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 1 9 



SEVENTH LESSON. 
TEACHING HORSE TO FOLLOW. 



This can be done many different ways. I will show 
you how and you may take your choice. 

After giving horse treatment for balking, tying head 
up, you can throw halter rope over the shoulder and 
it will follow. By putting on double pulley bridle, 
and giving a pull first one way and then another, and 
saying, " come here ! " at the same time, it will follow 
you. 

By turning horses loose in lot and whipping around 
hind legs and caressing every time it turns its head to 
you, it will follow. 

By feeding sugar every time you go to the pasture, 
it will follow. 

I believe by use of bridle is the best. 



20 FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



EIGHTH LESSON. 
DRIVING WITHOUT LINES. 

Since last October I have driven a number of colts 
without lines, I do not know how many, in my en- 
closure. But three of them I have driven on the streets 
and the last one without a bridle. The first one was 
a Percheron type, two years past. When I drove him 
he probably weighed fourteen hundred. He was driven 
on the streets of Minier and Stanford without lines, 
and he did several other tricks. The next one was a 
road colt. He was sired by Prince Weller with a mark 
of 2:17, trotting, but not standard bred. He was driven 
by me in the different towns of Dan vers, Lilly, Mack- 
inaw, Morton, Stanford, Minier, Atlanta and Delavan, 
(all these towns are in Illinois). I drove this colt 
without a bridle on in Minier. Also rode him that 
way. The next one was at Goehner, Nebraska, Sew- 
ard, county. This was a three year old roadster, but 
not standard bred. He was driven by me in the dif- 
ferent towns of Goehner, Tamora, Beaver Crossing, 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 
IP 



Milford and Seward, Nebraska. I trained this colt in 
eleven days to drive without lines. 1 have done this 
to advertise and show that my course means control. 
Any one applying this in way indicated can have good 
results. 

The first lesson is given with the double pulley bri- 
dle. In the way of getting the colt's confidence, put on 
pulley bridle and ride it about in the lot. Next, put on 
the front hobble. This should be done in a lot not 
over fifty feet square. Use surcingle, bridle and lines. 
Take hobble rope in hand between hind legs, tap it on 
the side of the neck the way you wish to turn, pull the 
whip away from the neck about four feet. If the colt 
stops, tap it again, and pull on the line the way you 
want to turn. Drill it this way for fifteen minutes on 
both sides. When it begins to turn nicely, tie the lines 
up. 

You must not get angry, or you can never drive with- 
out lines. 

Now use the hobble rope, and tap on the neck with" 
the whip ; get out to the side and look the colt right in 
the eye as you draw the whip away. If it does not 



22 FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



want to turn, take hold of the line again and repeat 
with whip to give the colt a chance to know that you 
mean for it to turn with the whip. Now stop it and 
start tapping on the side of the neck with the whip. 
If it wants to turn the other way, pull on hobble rope. 
When he comes your way, let loose of hobble rope. 
This must be done the instant he turns your way. Be 
careful and make as few mistakes with the whip as you 
can. By repeating in this manner you will soon have 
it following the whip. After you have it following the 
whip both ways, let it rest a while. Then teach it to 
stop by pulling on hobble rope and raising the whip 
in the air, at the same time you pulling repeatedly un- 
til you have it stopping by raising the whip. Be sure 
and drill this colt thoroughly before hitching. Drive 
it with the lines the first time or two and use them just 
as little as possible. Take sash cord, make loop in it, 
and place around the upper jaw and the nose, pass 
through loop on top of bridle and take in the buggy ©r 
cart. Now stop it by pulling on sash cord and raising 
whip. Turn with whip and by means of sash cord. After 
you get control of this way, put on front hobble and 



FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 23 



take hold of tail of colt ; stop by pulling it to its knees 
with hobble and say " whoa ! " by pulling on tail. 

It is best next time to repeat. You can tell when 
you have your subject under control and take appli- 
ances off one at a time until you have every thing off 
but the bridle. 

You must be careful now and keep control of colt. 
Never hit it with the whip or you will spoil all you 
have gained. 



24 FREITAG'S WHIP AND WAR BRIDLE. 



A FINAL WORD. 

In conclusion, do not forget the great necessity for 
Patience, 
Perseverance, and 
Self Control, 
on your part. It stands to reason that you will not 
be able to control an unruly horse (or anything else) 
if you can't control yourself. 

You will therefore see that in teaching your horse 
good manners and correct habits, you will probably be 
learning something yourself. 

Do n't spend a lot of time training a horse, and then 
allow your work to be spoiled by thoughtless or brutal 
treatment. 

Again I say, use these valuable lessons wisely, mix 
them with patience and perseverance, keep your tem- 
per, and you will gain pleasure and profit thereby. 



JUL 30 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 863 279 4 



